When does a fragrance become a "classic"?

Famous fragrances for women that have stood the test of time and have secured their special place in the history of perfumery continue to be of interest to all perfume enthusiasts. Innovative, bold, and vibrant, these compositions have become the starting point for the emergence of new fragrance families and genres.

Classic fragrances continue to be in high demand among buyers. Classic perfumes that are still hugely popular are Chanel No. 5, created in 1921. Guerlain Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Coty Chypre — these are just some of the cult classic fragrances, each of which has become a pioneer in its own direction in perfumery.

Classic fragrances will never go out of style because they are the ones that started the entire history of perfumery. They transcend the ever-changing boundaries of fashion and hold a special place in people's hearts for years, and even generations.

Why is there such obvious interest in the fragrant past? Expert opinions differ. The return to classic perfume genres is often associated with the fact that these products have already "matured" and can be sold once again with some minor adjustments. Fashion, including the world of perfumery, is cyclical, and younger consumers simply haven't encountered anything similar before: mossy chypres and aldehydic fragrances don't evoke any associations and seem fundamentally new. Perhaps it's also because the modern perfume landscape has become too complex: in 2022 alone, over 4,000 new fragrances were released, whereas the past appears more comprehensible due to economic reasons. In the past, if one desired an "authentic perfume from the East," Black Opium YSL or Shalimar Guerlain came to the rescue; today, there are hundreds of oriental compositions available.

"Many people live in a world of memories, and memories are an unreliable, elusive thing. In reality, the ratio of good and bad fragrances in the past, just like good and bad perfumers, was roughly the same as it is today," comments Roja Dove (born Roger Bird), the creative director of the brand Roja Parfums. "The difference is that there were far fewer fragrances themselves, and it was easier to navigate."

Perfume brands can tap into their heritage and release modernized versions of classic fragrances. Among such releases, we can mention Peut-Être by Lancôme, Shalimar Philtre de Parfum by Guerlain, and Pasha de Cartier Parfum. Brands often reissue legendary creations, adding new notes to the classic composition. This gives rise to entire lines of fragrances that can vary subtly or be completely different. However, it's not just about flankers. Perfume brands also release popular fragrances in limited editions, altering the bottle design, and creating millésime compositions.